Potatoes
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Buying and Storing Potatoes
Select potatoes, any type, that are firm, free from blemishes and soft
spots. They should not be sprouting and should not have green areas on the
skin. Minor cuts from harvesting are generally not a big problem so long
as they are thoroughly dry with no decay.
Store potatoes in a cool, dark place with very good air circulation.
They should never be kept in a plastic bag or similar container that
restricts air circulation. The ideal storage temperature is between
40°F/5°C and 50°F/10°C. Temperatures above 50°F
encourage sprouting and temperatures below 40°F cause starch to turn
to sugar, which changes taste and darkens color. Potatoes intended for
French fries should be kept a bit warmer, around 50 degrees because any
sugar conversion at all will make for bad fries.
Do not refrigerate potatoes. Refrigeration causes starches to
break down into sugars resulting in overly sweet potatoes that turn an
unattractive dark color when cooked. Do not store potatoes near onions
- gasses onions exude accelerate decay in potatoes.
If your potatoes are starting to sprout, their texture won't be ideal,
but they can still be used (depending on cooking method). The sprouts
should be completely removed as they are toxic. A little greening of the
skin should not be a problem but you probably want to peel those as some
people are more sensitive to solanine toxins than others.
Cutting & Peeling
Before peeling or cutting potatoes, prepare a big bowl of water. Cut
surfaces should be immediately plunged into this water and kept wet
to avoid becoming gray and ugly. DO NOT add acid to the water
unless you specifically want to harden the outside of the potato so it
keeps very sharp edges in cooking (not often).
Peeling
Potatoes with tender skins should be eaten "skin on" wherever it won't
interfere with enjoyment of the recipe. The skin provides dietary fiber and
a fair amount of the potato's nutrition is close under the skin,
particularly the protein which is concentrated right up against the skin.
Of course, that's where the solanine toxins are too, so potatoes with
significant greening should be peeled.
"New Potatoes" are never peeled, and sizes under 2 inches generally do
not have to be peeled. Potatoes to be baked are almost always baked in
their skins (russets naked, others wrapped in foil). The skin may then be
eaten or not as you wish.
In many cases the skin can easily be peeled off after cooking, which
method takes the least amount of material with the peel. Raw potatoes are
almost always peeled with a vegetable peeler which makes it much easier
to take a very thin peel than with a paring knife. I prefer a "Y" shaped
peeler rather than the straight models which seem much harder to
manipulate safely. The one I use takes a very thin peel. For cooked
potatoes the skins are usually just pulled off.
Cutting
Do not use carbon steel knives to cut raw potatoes - they tend to
cause discoloration. Whether a potato is raw or cooked, cut it with a
sharp knife with a very thin blade to minimize cracking and crumbling.
Thin Santokus and Nakiris with blades no thicker than 0.075 inch (2 mm)
are very good. Cooked potatoes should be thoroughly cooled if possible
so they are less likely to crumble.and will slice into nice shapes.
Chefs favor Yukon Gold potatoes as they cut very well after cooking,
but they must be cooked very carefully because even a little over-cooked
they will turn to mush.
In most cases I peel and cut into cubes before cooking even if the
recipe says to peel and cut after. While there may be a little more
vitamin and mineral loss, cooking is very fast, very easy to judge and
very evenly cooked. The cubes stay very intact. I use mostly White
Rose and Red potatoes for soups, stews, curries and stir fries, and
they do tend to crack when boiled whole and crumble when sliced after
boiling, the reds less so than the whites.
Cooking Methods
With potatoes now a major food and ingredient worldwide, there are a
zillion ways to cook them. For the best results you need not only know
the various tricks for each method, you must select an appropriate
variety of potato. You can refer to our Selection
Chart for help with that and the items below for a few hints
on getting methods to work right.
Deep Frying
- Use Russets for crisp fries and consistent results.
- Oil: Use a high temperature oil that is very low in
polyunsaturates (which turn rancid in minutes at frying temperatures).
Olive Pomace Oil and Avocado Oil are best, with Rice Bran Oil and
Peanut Oil next best. See our Cooking
Oils page for details and links to more information. Note:
it is now known that Beef Tallow was far more healthy than the
vegetable based trans fats the do-gooders forced the fast food
industry to use instead.
- Do not deep fry in your nice shiny sauté pan or similar - It'll
be coated with varnish and you'll never get it nice and shiny again.
- For modest amounts, an Indian kadhai is the ideal deep fryer. It
requires a modest amount of oil and its shape minimizes splattering.
It is better than a wok because the sides are higher and steeper.
- For larger quantities a basket deep fryer is good (but will make more
of a mess).
- Electric deep fryers are a nice idea, but many underperform rather
badly. Check reviews.
- Cut potatoes to desired shape. French fries should be no more than 3/8
inch on a side.
- Soak in cold water lightly acidulated with lemon juice (1/2 T per
quart) or citric acid (1/8 t / quart). Let soak for 1 to 2 hours. This
makes for a crisper outer surface. Rinse, drain well, spin dry in your
salad spinner and set out on paper towels.
- Heat Oil to 375°F/190°C Fry in small batches until golden and
cooked through. Drain in a basket lined with paper towels. Salt and
serve immediately.
French Fries - Double Fried
Most people doing French fries do them as for Deep
Frying above, but technically, and for the puffiest fries, a double
fry is used. Note that real "French fries" (pommes frit) are round,
not long sticks. The long sticks are actually Belgian, but American WWI
soldiers served them thought they were still in France, and brought this
mis-conception home.
- Prepare potatoes same as for Deep Fry above.
- Heat plenty of oil to 350°F/177°C. Fry the potatoes in batches
to keep the oil near the right temperature. They should be fried for about
3 to 4 minutes and should not brown at all. Drain them in a strainer.
- Let the par-fried potatoes cool to room temperature before proceeding.
They can be refrigerated for longer holding.
- When ready to serve heat oil to 375°F/190°C. Again fry in small
batches to keep the oil near the ideal temperature but this time fry until
lightly browned and crisp.
- Drain and pour into a basket lined with paper towels. Season with salt
and serve immediately.
Pan Frying
- For frying grated potatoes for hash browns or pancakes, use russets,
grate and then press excess moisture out of them using a potato ricer
(don't force them through the ricer, just squeeze out the moisture).
- For frying cubes or slices, select an all-purpose potato that holds
together well. It's a good idea to peel and cut your potatoes first
then boil until barely tender. Cool before frying. This will be much
quicker and less mess than trying to fry from raw.
- Grated, cubed or sliced, you will have less problem with sticking
to the pan with lard than with cooking oils. Yes, lard, it's not
nearly as bad for you as you've been told - but do use lard you
rendered yourself. For details see our
Lard page. Of course, if you are
an observant Jew or Muslim, you're out of luck here, but you could
try lamb fat.
Boiling
- Use potatoes appropriate for boiling - unless you are boiling them to
make mashed potatoes - then use Russets or White Rose.
- In general you want to boil potatoes until just done through. Cooking
beyond that causes them to become crumbly or waterlogged depending on
type. Boiling time will depend on size. Use a sharp thin metal skewer
to determine doneness. It should slip right through the thickest part
of the largest potato without encountering a hard spot in the middle.
- Peel boiled potatoes as soon as you can handle them.
- For potatoes boiled for mashing, peel before you can handle them.
Skewer on a fork and use a paring knife to help remove the skin.
- If you are cutting into slices or cubes, chill the potatoes thoroughly
before cutting and use a sharp thin bladed knife - thin Santokus and
Nakiris with blades no thicker than 0.075 inch (2 mm) are very good.
Steaming
An advantage of steaming over boiling is that the potatoes can be
peeled before steaming without becoming waterlogged or losing as much
nutrition as they would in boiling.
- Prep potatoes as desired - they may be skin-on, peeled or peeled
and cut into pieces.
- Rinse cut pieces to remove free surface starch.
- Steam until a sharp skewer will go through smoothly.
- For some applications, particularly if you intend to mash potatoes
cut into cubes, rinse them half way through the steaming cycle to remove
the coating of sticky starch. Then finish steaming and the mash will be
properly fluffy.
Baking
- Use only potatoes suitable for baking - that means Russets, or as a
second choice, White Rose. Waxier potatoes do not fluff after baking.
- Pierce each potato with a thin skewer, moderately deep in just a few
places to let steam escape. This is particularly important if you bake
in the microwave (inferior method) where they are likely to explode if
you don't.
- Rub the skins evenly with olive oil, then (optional) rub them with
kosher salt (the texture is better for adhesion than regular salt,
especially if you use Diamond Crystal brand).
- Never wrap baking potatoes in foil. Some people say to wrap White Rose
in foil but then the flavor and texture are almost exactly the same as
boiled or steamed, so why bother to heat up the oven? Also, when you try
to open them like one that's been baked naked (see below) the skins
break up.
- Arrange in a single layer on the top rack and bake in an oven
preheated to 425°F/220°C for about an hour (for 8 ounce
potatoes) or until a sharp skewer will pass through without hitting
a hard spot. More time if the temperature is lower.
- The ideal temperature at the center of a baked potato is
210°F/99°C.
- Preferably serve immediately, but they can be held for as long 20
minutes if kept hot, a bit longer if you wrap them in foil after
removing them from the oven, but then the skins will not be crisp.
- When ready to serve, make a lengthwise cut on the top surface, then
squeeze in from the ends to pop it open.
- An oven baked potato weighing 8 ounces will lose about 20% of its
weight during baking. Less if larger or wrapped in foil.
- Twice Baked: For these you bake the potato as usual,
then cut off enough of the top side to scoop out the contents being
careful not to break the shell. Mash the contents and mix with desired
ingredients, refill and slide back into the oven until nicely browned
on top.
- See also the recipe Baked
Potatoes.
Roasting
- Peel or not, depending on your recipe or intent.
- Cut into halves or chunks depending on size, or for new potatoes
leave whole.
- Tumble in oil or melted fat or melted butter to coat evenly. Note:
line the pan with foil if using vegetable oils or it will be hard to
clean. Lard makes it much easier to clean the pan.
- Arrange in a roasting pan or on a rimmed baking sheet in a single
layer with a little space between potatoes.
- Bake in an oven preheated to 425°F/220°C until done. Tumble
them twice during baking for even browning.
Stews & Soups
- Select an appropriate potato, peel and cut into chunks.
- Acids: Be aware that acidic cooking liquids like tomato
broth or sauce, sauerkraut, wine or other acidic foods will harden the
outside of pieces of raw potato. It is best in most cases to have your
potatoes at least half cooked before they come in contact with acidic
liquids.
- For curries and similar recipes where potatoes are simmered with a
moderate amount of tomatoes and the mix is not too acid, the firming of
corners and edges may be desirable for texture. I find White Rose
potatoes work well under this condition.
Scalloped or au Gratin
- Cut potatoes into slices between 1/16 and 1/8 inch thick.
- If you wish to shorten baking time you can par-boil the slices, but if
you do, do so only in the liquid that will be used for the sauce.
- Oil or butter the baking dish and arrange the potato slices in it so
they are as even as possible.
- Make white sauce or cheese sauce, pour over the potatoes and shake the
baking dish gently to distribute it.
- For au gratin sprinkle top with buttered bread crumbs.
- Bake an oven preheated to 325°F/160°C until potatoes are tender
and the top is nicely browned.
- Let stand for about 10 minutes before cutting for serving.
You will find many potato recipes on this site on our
Recipe Index by
Ingredients.
Selecting the Right Type of Potato
There are three general categories of potato: Baking (russets),
Boiling (round potatoes) and All-Purpose. Ah, if only it were that
simple! Alas, within each category there are many cultivars with a
wide range of characteristics - and no way for a consumer to know which
cultivar they are buying.. For that reason, this chart is only a
rough guide. See the Potato Page
for more on varieties.
Type => |
Baking Russets |
Between White Rose |
All Purpose Kennebec Yellow Finn |
Yukon Gold Type |
Purple All Blue |
Boiling round white round red |
French Fries | Yes | no |
Yes | Yes | Yes | no |
Potato Chips | Yes | no | Yes |
Yes | Yes | Yes |
Hash Browns | Best |
|
| | |
|
Pancakes | Best |
|
|
|
|
|
Pan Fry | no | ok | Yes |
Yes | Yes | Best |
Potato Salad | no (1) | Yes |
Yes | Yes | Yes |
Yes (6) |
Stew & Soup | no (1) | Yes
(2) | Yes | No (5) |
Weird | Yes |
Roasting | Yes | Yes | Yes |
Yes | Yes |
|
Baking | Best | Yes (3) |
Yes | Yes | Yes | Yes |
Mashing | Yes | Yes | Yes |
Yes | Yes | no |
Boiling | no | ok (4) |
Yes | No (5) | Yes |
Best |
Steaming | no | Yes | Yes
| Yes | Yes | Yes |
Scalloped | no | Yes | Yes |
Yes | Weird | ok |
Notes
-
Russets: This is the only type of potato
used in Ireland. They are used in soups and stews in small quantity
as a thckener, but cubes will quickly disintegrate. A writer in
Cook's Illustrated chose russets for potato salad because they
absorbed dressing better than others, but they take very careful
handling in this use. I prefer Red Potatoes.
-
White Rose: White Rose will lose their edges
and corners which will thicken the stew nicely unless the stew
is acidic which will harden the outside of any potato even if the core
is crumbly. For curries with tomatoes White Rose is probably your best
choice, hardening less than others.
-
Baking: When using White Rose or similar
general purpose potatoes for baking they are often wrapped in foil,
while Russets should not be wrapped.
-
Boiling: White Rose potatoes can be boiled,
but they will be a bit more crumbly than other all purpose or boiling
potatoes. They can still, after cooling, be cut into neat cubes, but
if you intend to fry the cubes they will be more likely to break up
than the other boiling potatoes.
-
Yukon Gold: The current darling of every
recipe writer, but if wet cooked just a little longer than the ideal
(almost always for soups and stews) they disintegrate into mush. They
are very popular with chefs, because if cooked exactly right they
cut into cubes better than any other potato. I am not real fond of
their flavor for many recipes.
-
Red Potatoes: I find these even better than White Rose for
potato salads. I don't know about Round White potatoes - we don't
have those in Southern California.
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