Oils & Fats

• History

  - and general information

• Cooking with Oils & and Fats

• Varieties

  - descriptions and uses

• Smoke Point and Composition Chart

  - a comparative summary

• Oils, Fats & Health

  - raging controversy prevails

• Links

  - to other Oil and Fat sites

History

Before the first permanent settlements, nutrient oils came from insects, animals, nuts and grains eaten on a "catch as you can" basis. Nomadic people learned to render fat from animals and how to use it for cooking and to preserve foods with a combination of fat, smoking and sun drying.

Once villages were established the technology of extracting oils by heat and pressure was quickly refined and oils were extracted from oily fruits (olives, mainly, and perhaps sunflower seeds) as well as animals. Properly processed oils and fats could be stored much longer than the perishables they were extracted from and could tide a village over times of food shortage.

Even so, most communities had only a single dominant type of oil and little else. Modern technology and transportation have provided us with a wealth of flavors for a wide choice for different cooking methods and for health. The health part, however, has become highly controversial (see our article Oils, Fats and Health).

Varieties

General

For Smoke Point and Fat Type Content, refer to our Oils Chart.

Achiote Oil / Lard

Almond Oil

Annatto Oil / Annatto Lard

Oil or lard infused with Annatto Seeds which dye it an intense red-gold color (orange to yellow as thinned) and give it a subtle warm flavor. This oil is important in Cuban, Filipino, Portuguese, Mexican, Puerto Rican, and Jamaican Cooking.

You can make it easily by adding 1/2 cup annatto seeds to 1 cup oil (or 1 cup annatto to 1 cup lard) then heating and stirring over moderate heat until the desired color is achieved (overheating will cause it to lose its red color and flavor). Alternately for oil, heat to 350°F, take off heat and stir in annatto. Continue stirring until foaming stops and desired color is achieved.

Argan Oil

Avocado Oil

Beef Fat

Well made tallow can be kept at room temperature much longer than suet without spoiling. This fat was once used to make candles and as a lubricant but today is used mainly to make soap and industrial products, and by "fast food" restaurants as a low cost ingredient. It is also favored as a binder and nutrient in making winter feed blocks for song birds.

Beef fat is, of course, the primary flavoring and moistening agent in beef, particularly American beef which has been bred and fed to maximize "marbling". Consequently, fat cannot be largely removed from beef as it can be from other animal meats because it's shot through the muscle. On the other hand, the beef is of inferior edibility without it.   Photo by Daniel Schwen distributed under license Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported.

Butter / Ghee

Butter is high in saturated fats which cause it to be solid at normal room temperature. Whole butter can be used only at low temperatures because included milk protein solids brown and then burn easily. Overheated butter loses much of its flavor and severely overheated butter will be bitter.

Note that observant Jews cannot fry any dish containing meat in any form of Butter, because mixing dairy with meats is forbidden. For this reason they make considerable use of Schmaltz (rendered chicken or goose fat).

• Clarified Butter:

    This is butter that has been warmed until it is liquid. Any residue that floats to the top is skimmed off and discarded, the clear oil is poured off and the solids that sink to the bottom are discarded. Clarified butter can be used at a higher temperature than whole butter and is resistant to rancidity, but it does lack much of the flavor of whole butter.

• Ghee:

    This is a very thoroughly clarified and purified butter fat used as a major cooking oil through much of India and surrounding regions. Because it is so thoroughly purified of all moisture and solids it can be used at higher temperature and is much more resistant to rancidity than more casually purified clarified butter. Pots of ghee buried by nomads have been found in excellent condition even after a couple hundred years.   Details and Cooking.

  Many Indians now use Vegetable Ghee [vanaspati ghee, Dalda], similar to Western vegetable shortening, because they've been told it is healthier, and it is cheaper. Unfortunately much of it is made using trans fats, now known to be very non-healthy. Some is made using Coconut Oil which is probably much healthier. This brings us to points of great controversy (see our Oils and Health page).

• Sweet Butter:

    This is butter that has not been salted. It's called for by many European recipes, and an increasing number of North American recipes. It would seem if you're going to add salt anyway salted butter would be fine, but gourmets say they get better control adding all salt separately. Sweet butter will go rancid much more quickly than salted butter so must be kept refrigerated and used in a short time.

Camellia Oil

Camelina Oil

This oil, from the seeds of a plant of the mustard family, is getting a lot of attention due to the very favorable Omega-6 / Omega-3 balance (23.0% / 31.2%) and its high content of antioxidants and vitamin E which make it quite resistant to oxidation. Used as a cooking oil it has a slight almond flavor. It is also getting a lot of attention as a possible biofuel for jet engines. This plant is native to Europe and Central Asia, and has been cultivated as an oil seed plant for at least 4000 years.   Photo by Fornax distributed under license Creative Commons Attribution v3.0.

Canola Oil

"Canola" is an invented name (Canada + oil + low acid) for genetically modified rapeseed oil. Technically it is "low erucic acid, low glucosinolates rapeseed oil". Originally this modification was by breeding but recently it's by "engineering", with 80% of the crop now considered "GM".

Rapeseed oil was long an important lubricant for machinery exposed to water and steam, so during World War II, when European and Asian supplies were cut off, large plantings were established in Canada. After the war new markets needed to be found, so voila! "Health food".

Rape is a member of the mustard / cabbage family. Stems of leaves are sold in Asian markets as Yu Choy, and it's a fine vegetable - but unmodified rapeseed oil is high in erucic acid, thought to cause of heart lesions in humans and animals. The FDA consider it unfit for food. The genetically modified Canola version has under 2% erucic acid and is listed by the FDA as GRAS (Generally Regarded As Safe), though it's rumored that listing cost Canada a bundle.

Canola is now intensely promoted by the seed oil industry as the healthiest of all cooking oils, pointing to it's high monounsaturated and Omega-3 fat contents. The success of this promotion is shown by the many cookbooks now specifically listing Canola oil in every recipe calling for cooking oil. As usual with industry promotions, there's negative stuff swept under the carpet. Some experts point to dangers and a few even call it unfit for human consumption - but those shrill Internet tracts about mustard gas are completely without merit. For more details see our Canola Oil page,   Photo by Prazak distributed under license Creative Commons Attribution v3.0.

Castor Oil

Chicken Fat

Coconut Oil

Coconut oil is 91% saturated fats and only 3% polyunsaturated fats. It is highly resistant to rancidity, so can be stored at room temperature for long periods of time, and is a preferred ingredient for many products that will be stored at room temperature. Of course, with all that saturated fat it's pretty stiff, with a melting point of 76°F/24.4°C.

Coconut oil has an extremely low oxidation factor so it is highly durable as a frying oil, even more durable than beef tallow. Virgin oil has to be kept below 350°F/175°C, but RBD (refined) oil can go as high as 450°F/232°C.   Details and Cooking.

Cod Liver Oil

Corn Oil

Corn oil, along with Soy Oil is a dominant ingredient in supermarket general purpose frying/salad oil. This oil is manufactured in vast quantity in the U.S. (and corn growers are promoting it as a motor fuel in hopes of pushing the price up). Since there are better oils for any particular purpose, and even for general purpose (Grape Seed, Canola), I see no reason to use it unless price is the only consideration.

Cottonseed Oil

Dende Oil

Duck Fat

Duck Butter is a water soluble lubricant used in stretch forming aircraft skins and in plumbing. I'm not sure if it is now or ever was made out of ducks.   Photo © i0035.

Fish Oils

This opinion appears to be supported by the evidence of ethnic populations that eat a lot of fish. These oils are best added to the diet by eating oily fish such as mackerel, tuna, salmon and herring. While the body can convert the Omega-3 in vegetable oils (flax, canola) into the Omega-3 oils found in fish, that process can be blocked by a number of factors, including those evil trans fats again.   Photo © b0008

Flaxseed Oil

Flaxseed oil is sold as a food supplement rather than for cooking. Fiber from the seeds is sometimes included as it is considered beneficial at some dosages. Flaxseed oil has its cachet from an Omega-3 fatty acid known as alfa-linolenic acid.

From its Omega-3 content flaxseed oil is compared to fish oil, but the comparison isn't necessarily valid because the Omega-3 oils in fish oil are very different from that in flaxseed and canola oils. The major uses of flaxseed oil are still paints, varnish and industrial products.

Ghee

Goose Fat

Grape Seed Oil:

With its unobtrusive flavor, grape seed oil can be used for Chinese stir fry in place of Peanut Oil called for in many recipes.Grape seed oil is higher in polyunsaturates than some other oils see(Oils Chart) but has a high anti-oxidant content so it resists rancidity better than many vegetable oils. One caution: it's a fast drying oil so you want to clean up splatter right away because cleaning will be a lot harder in a few days. On the other hand, this makes it very good for seasoning bare steel and cast iron cookware.

Jojoba Oil

Lamb Fat

Lara

Lard

Lard is still by far the best fat for many baking uses such as pie crusts, but U.S. supermarket lard tends to be of poor quality and heavily processed. The best lard to use for baking is called "leaf lard" which is made from the fat from around the pigs kidneys. It is available from some specialists (O4).   Details and Cooking.

Margarine

"Soft margarine" sold in tubs has a much lower trans fat content. See our Oils Chart for details. Of course this product doesn't work well where a more solid product is needed such as baking, where you might as well use leaf lard which provides the best results and is now no more dangerous than Butter.

Margarine was originally made from beef suet and lard as a cheap substitute for butter, but by the 1920s it was manufactured entirely from low cost vegetable oils.

When I was a child my parents bought margarine when butter was a lot more expensive. It was white then by law due to pressure from the dairy lobby and I got to break open the capsule of yellow dye and stir it into the white margarine until it looked sort of like butter.

On my own I've never used margarine because the flavor and texture remind me too much of axle grease. I figured dying sooner from butter would still be the better deal overall. Now there's no reason to use it at all since the trans fat issue has reduced the margarine promoters to telling us their product is "nowhere near as bad as you've heard".

Mineral Oil

Made from the same basic feed stock as diesel fuel and gasoline, mineral oil is refined until it is water clear and safe for human consumption - but it's indigestible and should never be used for cooking. Basically, it's a liquid form of vaseline. Find it at a local pharmacy or in the medicines section of your local supermarket.

Mustard Oil

This oil is unique in that usage calls for heating to the smoke point, but only for a second or two. The flavor of raw mustard oil is harsh, but brought to the smoke point and then cooling down a bit the flavor becomes much more pleasing.

Because of its high erucic acid content, a substance formerly thought to be dangerous, all mustard oil sold in the U.S. and the European Union carries the warning "For Massage Use Only" in small print on the label. Demographic data and recent research suggest there is no significant risk (except to male rats).   Details and Cooking

Mutton Fat

Olive Oil

When I first learned to cook, health "experts" warned us to avoid olive oil since it contained more artery clogging saturated fats than other vegetable oils. Today it's the only oil both the warring seed oil and coconut oil partisans agree is healthy and it's the darling of both gourmets and natural foods enthusiasts. Now saturated fats are gaining favor, hydrogenated oils are the devil and polyunsaturated vegetable oils are trying to avoid demonization. Details and Cooking.

Omega-3, Omega-6, Omega-9 Fats

There is debate over the validity of relating Omega-3 in vegetable oils (Canola and Flaxseed) to the health benefits of fish oils, as the Omega-3 oils in fish are quite different from the ones in vegetable oils, and the vegetable ones come with many times the percentage of Omega-6 compared to fish.

Palm Oil / Dende Oil

Dendê oil is much used in parts of West Africa, and in parts of Brazil influenced by Africa, particularly the Bahia region. It is considered essential for the proper color and flavor of dishes from those regions.

This oil is derived from the mesocarp, the red pulp surrounding the fruit of oil palms, not from the palm kernel. It is about 37% monounsaturated fats and 51% saturated fats (kernel oil is over 82% saturated fats), and it is high in vitamin E and antioxidants. The red color comes from alpha-carotene, beta-carotene and lycopene, the same as from tomatoes.   Details & Cooking.

Peanut Oil

Planter's peanut oil used to be wildly popular and in every grocery but now any peanut oil is hard to find. Acquisition of Planters and near destruction of its brand name and markets is a textbook case for the incompetence of overpaid corporate executives and wrote "fini" to the then popular management theory that "a trained manager can manage anything".

Peanuts are actually legumes (beans) rather than nuts, so general comments about "nut oils" do not apply.

Peanut oil is called for particularly in Chinese cooking because its light flavor does not detract from the flavor of quickly stir fried ingredients and its high smoke point lends it to that style of frying. I find "house brand" peanut oil in gallon jugs and 5 gallon cans at a local restaurant supply store, but substitutes like grape seed oil are now available everywhere (peanut is lower in polyunsaturates).

Pig Fat

Rapeseed Oil

Rice Bran Oil

Safflower

Schmaltz

Seal Oil

Seal oil is rather difficult to get in the lower 48 and Hawaii, so you really have to know someone in Alaska or northern Canada willing to smuggle some down. Alternatively, it's easy to make it yourself. When you cut up your seal, take all the blubber and cut it in chunks. Put the chunks in a bucket which you keep at about 40°F somewhere the dogs can't get at it. In about 5 days the oil will have rendered out and can be used as is or can be filtered and purified depending on your needs (if your outdoor temperature is above 40°F you might want to render by boiling and skimming instead).   Photo by NOAA = public domain.

Sesame Seed Oil

Store these relatively perishable oils in a cool place away from light in tightly sealed containers and they should last up to 9 months. Since I use little of it I usually store a small can of the dark sesame oil in the refrigerator (it does not solidify) to extend its life.

• Sesame Oil (plain) is seldom found outside the "health food" section. It's very light colored and has most or all of the sesame flavor filtered out. It's commonly packaged in tiny bottles at absurd prices for use as a salad oil or for moderate temperature cooking - but I have a hard time figuring out why.
• Gingelly Oil is much used in Singapore and elsewhere in Southeast Asia. It is clear and light yellow in color with a very distinct flavor of crushed sesame seeds. It can be found in Indian groceries and stores catering to Southeast Asian populations. This oil is used for condiments and pickles and should not be used at high temperatures as its flavor will be lost.
• Dark sesame oil is familiar from Chinese, Japanese and Korean cuisine. Much darker than Gingelly, this oil is pressed from roasted sesame seeds.and is available in a range of shades and flavors. Use this oil as a flavoring oil, not as a cooking oil. It is generally added to cooked dishes just before they are taken off the heat (except sometimes in Korea).

Shea Butter

This oil is produced from the seeds of the Shea Nut Tree, native across equatorial Africa, but also widely grown in Turkey. In North America and Europe, Shea Butter is used mostly in cosmetic preparations, but in Central Africa it is a major cooking oil. It's properties are similar to Palm Oil.   Details and Cooking.

Sheep Fat

Sheep fat is processed from suet to tallow the same way as Beef Fat and is particularly used as a substitute for Lard by those living under religious prohibitions against pig. Note that in the U.S., mutton is very rare, most sheep being slaughtered at less than 1 year of age while they can still be called "lamb".

The preferred fat is from the sheep's tail, and in some countries sheep are specially bred for large fat laden behinds and tails. Tail fat is not available in the U.S. because the tail is always cut off new born lambs here. This is to avoid a problem with flies you'd probably rather not know about. The other preferred fat comes from around the kidneys, same as with "leaf lard" from pigs. Photo © i0003

Shortening

Soy Oil

While serious health questions surround some soy products (soy milk and TVP (Textured Vegetable Protein)), soybean oil is widely considered safe, unless you ask the coconut oil partisans. Because it is high in polyunsaturated fats and contains limited antioxidants it is more subject to rancidity than, say, olive oil or canola oil, so keep it in tightly sealed containers in a cool place away from direct sun and it should be good for 9 months or so. For frying, it should be used for only short jobs and never reused because of heat rancidity.

Suet

Sunflower Oil

Refined sunflower oil is a good all-around cooking oil but not as neutral in flavor as grapeseed or peanut. "Virgin" or "cold pressed" sunflower oils have a very low smoke point and should not be used for cooking. High in polyunsaturates, sunflower oil will go rancid faster than, say, olive oil or canola oil. Store it tightly sealed in a cool dark place and use it within 9 months. For frying it should be used only for short jobs and never reused due to heat rancidity.

Genetically manipulated "High Oleic" sunflower oils are now made which approach the oil balance of olive oil and are much more durable for deep frying than the regular sunflower oil, but are not available on the consumer market.

Tallow

Tea Oil / Camellia Oil

This is NOT "Tea Tree Oil", which is toxic. It is also not made from the same species of Camellia used for tea, but from a closely related species that yields more oil from its seeds. It is a high temprature oil with a health profile better than peanut oil but not as good as olive oil. It is a light amber colored oil with a distinctive flavor, so is not for use where a neutral oil is needed. This oil is much used in southern China, where the tea camillias are also grown. It is available in some of the larger Asian markets here in Southern California at about 2016 US $8.99 for 600ml, from Taiwan (so it's probably unleaded).

Trans Fats

Vegetable Ghee

The products I've used are made from 100% palm oil colored with beta carotene and with some butter like flavorings added. This casts it deep into the tropical oils controversy. I see no problem with the palm oil products, but vegetable ghee made from hydrogenated oils would be Trans Fats - same problem as with North American vegetable shortening and fast food fries.

Vegetable Oil

Vegetable Shortening

Proctor and Gamble invented Crisco, the first vegetable shortening, because they were being killed in the soap business by competitors. They made it from the same cottonseed oil they used for soap and sold it based on unverified claims (no FDA back then) that it was a "healthier" substitute for Lard in baked goods. This sounds just like the recent shift by the soy oil folks from paint to "healthier food".

The main requirements for vegetable shortening are to be a fat solid at normal room temperature, devoid of distracting flavor and made from plants, so vegetable oils, mostly cotton seed, soy and corn, are partially hydrogenated to achieve the right consistency.

Unfortunately partially hydrogenated oils are evil trans fats, now considered the most dangerous type of fat, more dangerous even than evil saturated fats. New government labeling laws and a flood of health articles are making this product harder to market, so the edible oil industry has responded with new formulas (Crisco & others) with very low trans fat content. These are made by fully hydrogenating cottonseed oil.

Fully hydrogenated oils have the consistency of a hockey puck, but by whipping in unhydrogenated vegetable oils the correct consistency can be achieved. Of course fully hydrogenated oils are saturated fats, what they were trying to get away from in the first place. It's still about half the saturated fats of butter or lard, so it's officially "better for you" unless you're more concerned about the high content of (dangerous?) polyunsaturates.

Walnut Oil

Walnut oil is much used in the cuisines of Anatolia, Caucasus and Persia. California is a major producer (and the world's second largest producer of walnuts). but it is not often available in stores, not even Trader Joe's. It is, however, easily available on the Internet. Refrigerate after opening.

Whale Oil

Links

• O4 - Leaf Lard - available from Dietrich's Country Store 66 Old 22, Lenharsville, PA 19534: 1-610-756-6344.
• O6 - Rice Bran Oil - California Rice Oil Company