Sauces
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SAFARI
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Burma
Pazun Ngapi, Burmese shrimp paste, is said by some sources
to be much like the Thai, but a little softer. Other sources say it's more
like the Malaysian. Well, Burma is northwest of Thailand and shares a long
border, so I'd say Thai- Northern shrimp paste
is a good bet, lacking othere evidence.
China
Hom ha / Hay koh is used in southern coastal
China for stir fries, with vegetables (particularly Ong Choy) and pork,
but not a lot elsewhere in China. It is ground smooth, darker, more
pungent, less shrimpy and saltier than most shrimp sauces but not so dark
and salty as the Malaysian. The photo sample is Koon Chun brand, made in
Hong Kong and widely available in Southern California.
Indonesia
Terasi is made similar to Belacan (and
may even be labeled "Belacan") but varies buy region of manufacture as to
exact composition. Color ranges from reddish-purple to dark brown and it
may be made of a mixture of shrimp, fish and vegetables. It is pressed
into blocks, and as with Belacan it is roasted before use. It is also
sometimes available as pre-roasted slices individually wrapped, as in the
photo.
The best way to roast is in a dry pan, crumbling it as it roasts. many
recipes say to wrap it in foil and hold over a burner flame until aromatic,
which smells up the kitchen less. Appartment dwellers sometimes resort to
roasting it in the oven, because ovens generally vent to the outdoors.
This product can be kept at room temperature for many months if tightly
wrapped and kept dry. You'll want it tightly wrapped in any case to confine
the distinctive odor. It's best kept in a tightly capped jar.
Korea
Saeujeot is an important ingredient in Korean cuisine, these shrimp
are whole and very salty but only mildly fermented so they have very much
less flavor (and aroma) than the similar looking Malaysian Cincalok.
Saeujeot is used as a general condiment and seasoning, sometimes in
place of plain salt, and particularly in kimchi.
Malaysia & Singapore
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Cincalok (say chin-cha-lo) is a pinkish paste of whole tiny
shrimp, salt and rice flour popular in Malaysia as a dipping sauce mixed
with lime juice and shallots
(Sambal Cincalok).
It is also used in marinades for pork, as an ingredient in omelets and
in steamed vegetable recipes. A required ingredient for Nonya cooking in
Singapore, it's sold in glass bottles. It has a notably pungent aroma
and taste, considered an acquired taste even by some Malaysians.
Petis Udang is a black shrimp paste with the consistency of
molasses and made from fermented shrimp, salt, sugar and flour, similar
to Chinese shrimp sauce. It is served as a condiment and added to soups.
Blachan is the most common Malaysian shrimp paste. It is tiny shrimp
mashed and fermented for a couple of months. It is then fried and pressed
into cakes. It is always roasted before use in recipes. I have also found
this product "pre-roasted", consisting of 1/4 inch thick slices from the
block individually wrapped.
The best way to roast is in a dry pan, crumbling it as it roasts. many
recipes say to wrap it in foil and hold over a burner flame until aromatic,
which smells up the kitchen less. Appartment dwellers sometimes resort to
roasting it in the oven, because ovens generally vent to the outdoors.
This product can be kept at room temperature for many months if tightly
wrapped and kept dry. You'll want it tightly wrapped in any case to confine
the distinctive odor. It's best kept in a tightly capped jar.
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Philippines
Bagoong Alamang (also spelled Bagoong Aramang) is tiny shrimp or
krill salted, fermented dried and crushed into a paste. The pink version
is as fermented, but the color may vary because it is colored with Red
Dye #3, sometimes more than excessively. To be honest, the bright pink
versions dye food such a horrid unappetizing color I recommend using the
brown fried version, or a shrimp paste from some other culture. It is
used as an ingredient and as a table condiment.
Bagoong Guisado / Ginisang Bagoong is the brown version. It
is Bagoong Alamang that has been mixed with other ingredients, typically
Oil, Vinegar, Sugar, Onion and/or Garlic, and then fried. Available in
Regular, Sweet and Spicy versions, it is used as an ingredient and as
a table condiment.
Thailand
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Thai - With Soy Oil - [Kapi, Gapi]
Kapi is still made in fishing villages and collected by agents
for packing companies. Basically it's just whole tiny shrimp salted and
dried (larger shrimp will be fermented before drying). Some sources say
this is not made from shrimp, but a similar crustacean, but there is no
true scientific definition of "shrimp" or "prawn", so call it what you
will. In any case it is made from genus Acetes (most) or genus
Mesopodopsis. The packing company may add other ingredients, typically:
soybean oil, garlic, salt, pepper, paprika oleoresin. It is often
roasted before use - wrapping in foil and holding over a burner flame
until aromatic works well.
Buying: Pantainorasingh and Tra Chang are quality brands widely
available in the US. Pantainorasingh is the brand I usually have on hand.
The small 3.2 ounce jar is adequate for most of us. While properly made
kapi may last for weeks at room temperature it's best to refrigerate it
once opened, where it will keep indefinitely.
Thai - Without Soy Oil - [Kapi, Gapi]
This form of Kapi is made just as described above from genus
Acetes (most) or genus Mesopodopsis - except, tor this type, the packing
company does not add oil or other major ingredients. It is often roasted
before use - wrapping in foil and holding over a burner flame until
aromatic works well.
Buying: This form is very uncommon compared to the form with
oil, and I found only two brands in one of the largest Asian markets
in Los Angeles, and none in others. The photo specimen is Nang Fah (Tue
Kung) brand, which contains only shrimp and salt. Pantainorasingh is
also available but has some other ingredients and is sweetened with
saccharin. Recommended storage is "in a cool dry place", but it's best
to refrigerate it once opened, where it will keep indefinitely.
Thai- Northern - [Kapi Kung]
The Shrimp Paste of northern Thailand is not currently available in
North America, even in Los Angeles. Andy Ricker, who is extremely fussy
about true Thai taste, suggests faking it up from Korean salted shrimp and
a little regular Thai Kapi (the kind without oil).
Details and Cooking.
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Vegetarian
Probably the best solution, often called Shan Gapi (Shan Srimp Paste), is
Shan Tua Nao - Soybean Paste,
Disks, (Burmese), which is easy to make. You can use Thai
Yellow Bean Sauce which is easily available and made of fermented
soybeans and salt. Chinese
Fermented Black Beans can be
crushed to a paste and used.
Vietnam
Mam Ruoc / Mam Tom is made similarly to Thai Kapi, but the
process is a bit more complex and it ends up much darker and a more purple
color. It's generally ground smooth and packed in jars or small tubs.
Mam tom is the name in North Vietnam, Mam ruoc in Central and South Vietnam.
The photo sample is made by Gia Minh in Saigon (yes I know it's Ho Chi Minh
City now, but, like Leningrad, that will pass.
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